Hvar is pronounced “War” and is a large island. We took a high-speed ferry from Split (where we landed) to Hvar. It took a little more than an hour to arrive. Hvar is one of the most charming places I’ve ever visited. A few photos, to remember the details:
The view from my hotel balcony. We stayed in a former palace and we were the first guests they’d had since 2019. The island has up to 10,000 people during the summer, but only 3,000 people live there year-round.
The seaside Croatian hillsides are covered in stone homes with red tile roofs. The homes often have charming shutters over windows.
This large square is normally full of tourists. Instead, we saw little kids playing soccer and selling sea shells to the few tourists silly enough to buy one (us.) The church is closed for repair, but the bells still rang on the hour. There are little shops that line the square, including a grocery store, bakery, bookstore, and clothing boutiques. Even with tourist prices in one of the most expensive places in the country, a great local bottle of wine from Croatian grapes cost $5.
Hvar also has a centuries-old fortress on he highest hill that we climbed up to. It is hard to photograph for a dozen reasons, so you’ll have to believe me. The path to the fortress was a thousand stairs through these narrow stone alleys. At night, they turn into restaurants, bars, and dance floors. I really enjoyed how Croatian custom is to sit with a cup of coffee or alcohol and talk for hours. Waiters won’t bring the bill until you ask for it, allowing for laughter and conversation to go on and on.
Most people here don’t have a garden space, but that didn’t stop people from using the space they had to have plants. I appreciated the creativity.
Being from the desert, I just couldn’t get over the water or shades of blue. While the shoreline is mostly devoid of sandy beaches, people still find a way to get in and swim.
Tomorrow: the island of Korčula, where I’m trying to convince Jason to move.